Bastion Peak

Elevation: 13,490 ft.

Prominence: 755 ft.

Isolation: 1.6 miles

Technical Difficulty: Class 2

Bastion Peak Guidebook

Introduction

Moving north along the Continental Divide, Koven is the last of the major technical summits, and all of the 13ers north of here can be climbed at class 3 or lower. As the first and highest in this chain of walk-up summits, Bastion carries its distinction well, with a grand profile and a variety of moderate routes. Notable technical routes also exist, but are not included in this peakbagger-oriented guide.

General Considerations

Bastion is a convenient peak, and can be climbed from every point of the compass at comparable difficulty. Combinations of routes are often used to make traverses, and your choice of approach will probably depend on which other peaks you intend to climb. Bastion has even been used by backpackers to cross the Continental Divide!

Route 1: North Slopes – Class 2+

From the large talus field extending to the Divide north of Bastion, a large swath of talus and scree breaks through the upper cliffs and extends to Bastion’s summit ridge. From the top of the talus, the summit is a short walk away. A variation to this route follows steeper scree directly below the summit. Like most scree routes in the Wind River Range, in the early season the route is a moderate snow climb.

Route 2: East Glacier – Class 2, Moderate Snow

When looking up from Gannet Creek, a small but obvious glacier splits the two main ramparts of Bastion Peak. A standard mix of bushwhacking, moraine hiking, and snow travel offers access from Gannett Creek to the base of this lobe of the Gannett Glacier extending from the eastern cirque of Bastion, and the glacier itself is moderately angled. The author did not notice any crevasses, but due diligence is advised. The summit is across a short plateau from the top of the glacier.

Route 3: South Couloir – Class 2, Moderate Snow

Figure out how to get onto the upper bench of the Gannet Glacier between Koven and Rampart; one option would be approaching as described for Koven’s Approach A. From anywhere on the glacier near the Continental Divide below Koven’s northeast face, the route is obvious. A broad and moderately angled snow chute rises from the Gannett Glacier to Rampart’s talus-clad summit, from which the proper summit of Bastion is just a short stroll away. The author made an enjoyable snow-climbing circuit by ascending this route and descending Route 2. By late summer, the snow is mostly gone and the route is unpleasant.

Route 4: West Ramp – Class 2+

A rocky ramp extends towards Desolation Peak from Bastion’s western summit, called Rampart, which is connected to Bastion’s main peak by a high plateau. The route starts from the col between Rampart and Desolation; reach this point by hiking up a series of small valleys from Scott Lake or by climbing the glacial remnant at the head of the Tourist Creek drainage. The lower slope is broad and easy hiking, but higher up, cliffs impinge on the sides of the route, and the talus slope narrows to a shallow gully. The ramp tops out just below the summit of Rampart, from which Bastion is a short hike away. Combined with one of Bastion’s other routes, the west ramp provides one of the easiest Continental Divide crossings south of Flagstone.

Bastion Peak Map

Click title to show track

North Slopes Route
East Glacier Route
South Couloir Route
West Ramp Route

Bastion Peak Panorama

Bastion Peak Photos

Bastion Peak (highest summit near center of photo) as seen from Blaurock Pass; the south couloir route is the left snow line, and the east glacier route is the central snow slope (2016)

Sunrise on Bastion as seen from the summit of Mount Koven (2020)

After climbing Koven, beginning the ascent of Bastion’s south couloir from the Gannett Glacier (2020)

Looking back to the glacier from partway up Bastion Peak’s south couloir route (2020)

The true summit of Bastion Peak (left, snowy) as seen from a subsummit to the south (2020)

The view west from Bastion’s subsummit, looking at the unranked 13er named Rampart Peak (2020)

I followed these sheep tracks towards the summit (2020)

The dramatic northeast subpeak of Bastion rises steeply above the Gannett Creek drainage and seems to be where the peak got its name (2020)

The view north along the Continental Divide, showing U.N. Point 13180, Flagstone, Pedestal, and the Downs Mountain massif (distant), all of which I would traverse this afternoon (2020)

Looking west at Desolation Peak and the Green River cirques from the top of Bastion Peak (2020)

Descending a snow bowl at the top of the east glacier on Bastion Peak (2020)

Descending the east glacier route (2020)

Looking into upper Gannett Creek from the east glacier route (2020)

Looking back up at Bastion’s subpeaks and the east glacier route from my camp (2020)

My camp at the head of the Gannett Creek valley (2020)

Packing up camp in anticipation of a long Divide traverse (2020)

Climbing towards a saddle with the Continental Divide below Bastion’s northeast corner (2020)

The northeast subpeak of Bastion Peak, renowned for technical climbing routes (2020)

Looking back into the Gannett Creek region from the pass near Bastion’s northeast corner (2020)

The north slopes route follows the sunlit snow patch in the center of this photo; Bastion’s summit is on the right edge of the photo (2020)

Bastion Peak’s north aspect (summit just right of center, subpeak on the left) as seen from U.N. Point 13180 (2020)

Telephoto view of Bastion Peak (center), Gannett (left), and Pedestal/Flagstone (right) from Downs Mountain at the end of my Continental Divide 13ers traverse (2020)

The west side of Bastion peak as seen from Desolation Peak; the west ramp route follows the broad talus slope just right of center (2020)

Bastion’s vast bulk dominates the view to the east. I plan to ascend the sunlit scree slope to the sub-summit just right of center, called Rampart Peak.

Looking up at the sunlit slopes of Rampart from the base of Desolation’s east ridge.

Back in the sun again as I near the summit plateau of the Bastion-Rampart massif.

Sunset light washes across the northern Wind River Range as seen from the summit of Rampart Peak. I visited this unranked sub-summit because it was only a short detour and I hadn’t ticked it previously. The summit of Bastion is just right of center. Downs Mountains is the farthest summit, visible on the horizon between Flagstone and Bastion’s summit.

In this zoomed view to the east, the skyline peaks are Sunbeam, Turret, and Warren (left to right). Koven is visible below the horizon in the foreground. My sleeping elevation tonight would actually be higher than tomorrow’s first summit!

Panorama of the central cluster of Wyoming 13ers as seen from Rampart.

It’s almost sunset, and I still haven’t quite made it to Bastion’s summit, nor have I found a suitable spot to bivouac. The summit plateau mostly consists of frost-shattered rocks, which makes it hard to find somewhere flat enough to lie down.

Luckily, I spotted this giant boulder, an ancient glacial erratic, near the edge of Bastion’s summit plateau. Over the eons, this boulder has sheltered a small patch of sand from the prevailing western wind, providing a soft, flat spot to spend the night.

Sunset over the upper Green River as seen from the summit of Bastion Peak, with Flagstone visible on the right.

My giant boulder makes for cozy camp given the calm wind and clear skies. At an elevation of 13,350 ft. on Bastion’s wide-open summit plateau, I’m counting on the weather remaining perfect overnight. Camping here would be an entirely different prospect during a storm! The upside is that camping so high should help my acclimatization.

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The Sunlit Summit

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Wyoming 13ers Guidebook