Introduction

When hiking up the Glacier Trail, a towering rock wall parallels the trail on the other side of Dinwoody Creek for many miles. This is the edge of the peneplain remnant called Horse Ridge, and it rises gradually for over 10 miles to the broad summit of Mount Febbas, its highpoint. Similar to Bete Noire a little distance to the south, Febbas is a relatively mellow high peak situated east of the Divide, thus providing excellent panoramic views of the core Wind River glaciers, and it will likely become a popular objective in due time. According to the Bonneys, Febbas was named for an early backcountry guide from a dude ranch on the Green River.

General Considerations

Febbas is one of the highest peaks in Wyoming that can be reached by non-technical hiking routes. This peak would be a good objective for someone with plenty of wilderness experience looking to make the transition from hiking to mountaineering. For instance, backpackers crossing Blaurock Pass might consider dropping their packs at the saddle and detouring to Febbas’s summit. Of course, remember to respect the risk inherent in all mountain climbing regardless of difficulty—even a simple accident on talus can be disastrous when venturing this deep into the backcountry.

Route 1: Southwest Slopes – Class 2+

As with Sunbeam Peak’s standard route, this summit jaunt starts from the scenic crest of Blaurock Pass. Starting at either the end of the Glacier Trail in the upper Dinwoody Valley or the Helen Glacier outwash in the North Fork of Bull Lake Creek, ascend tedious scree slopes to Blaurock Pass. Alternatively, reach the pass by traversing from Sunbeam.

From there, a few hundred feet of loose talus climbing grants access to the summit. The easiest route ascends open talus fields substantially south of the ridge. For those who feel comfortable on the ascent of Blaurock Pass, climbing Febbas is only slightly more difficult. The author witnessed a house-sized rock spontaneously release from the cliffs just west of here and crash into the valley below; explore cautiously and pay attention to the dynamic potential of unstable landscapes.

Route 2: Horse Ridge Traverse – Class 2 or Class 3

An exceedingly long but entirely class 2 route would follow Horse Ridge all the way from the Ink Wells or even lower. However, the most interesting part of this approach to Febbas is near the end, where Chimney Rock looms on the skyline and Noel Lake (also called Knoll Lake) nestles in a hidden bowl around 12,200 ft.

While many variations are possible, the author chose to hike from the summit of Febbas over easy frost-shattered ground to Noel Lake before descending steep boulders in the vicinity of its outlet stream (class 3). Eventually, it is convenient to escape the outlet stream’s steepening defile by traversing slightly south on talus slopes, ultimately reaching and crossing Dinwoody Creek to reconvene with the Glacier Trail. The route could be done equally well in reverse, and combining this approach with the Blaurock Pass route would make for a scenic loop.