Spearhead Pinnacle

Elevation: 13,225 ft.

Prominence: 332 ft.

Isolation: 0.4 miles

Technical Difficulty: Class 5.4

Spearhead Pinnacle Guidebook

Introduction

Spearhead Pinnacle is the most difficult 13,000-foot peak in the Wind River Range assuming that all peaks are climbed by the easiest route under good conditions. Its point-like summit rises from the Continental Divide at the head of the Helen Glacier, but the peak goes unnoticed from most angles. Climbers usually congregate on technical summits, but like Koven, Spearhead has historically remained obscure.

Modern interest in list-based peakbagging has led to a new appreciation of this Pinnacle, as it is one of the most difficult summits on the list of Wyoming 13ers. However, this fine summit need not be reduced to a checkbox; its soaring granite ridges and superb position at the top of the Helen Glacier overlooking upper Titcomb Basin all make this peak worthy of an ascent.

General Considerations

Only one route has ever been reported on this extremely steep-sided peak. The Bonneys rate the north ridge as 5.3, but in the same guidebook they describe the Grand Teton’s Owen Spalding route as class 4. The technical climbing here is not quite as sustained as the Owen Chimney, but in the author’s opinion (having soloed both routes), the crux moves here are at least as hard as those on the Grand. Be prepared for a multi-pitch technical alpine climb before attempting Spearhead.

Route 1: North Ridge – Class 5.4 Moderate Snow

To approach the north ridge, first find your way to the head of the Helen Glacier. If coming from Titcomb Basin, a convenient snow and scree gully leads east to a small col (Pass 12561) on the Divide crest starting from a point in upper Titcomb Basin just north of Mount Helen.

Traverse the top of the Helen Glacier northward, looking out for crevasses. Ascend a short, broad snow couloir (rubble in the late season) to reach the ridgeline at 12,900 ft. near the col between Spearhead and Doublet. The ridge at this point consists of fractured blocks and scree. Bypass a large gendarme near the base of the proper north ridge by traversing ledges and scree on the west side below the crest.

The climbing now begins in earnest. An initial section of slabs and ledges leads upwards at class 4+; stay near the ridge crest or on the east side. Before long, the ridge steepens considerably. Several options are available here; two of the easiest versions are described. Variation 1: beginning a bit left of the ridge crest, it is possible to climb an exposed slab on inset edges, returning to the ridge atop the first large flake system. Variation 2: traverse farther from the ridge crest on east-facing slabby ledges until a series of large rock flakes block your progress, then chimney up behind one of these flakes to regain the ridge at a tiny false summit.

From here, the upper part of the pinnacle looms in full view, and you may see a distinct resemblance between the summit tower and a spearpoint. Next, cross a horizontal knife edge ridge and proceed up low class 5 slab section. The final hundred feet consists of easier scrambling, topped off by large summit boulder which requires a few class 4+ moves. A tiny summit register should be located on top, though like many Wind River registers, it typically lacks a writing utensil (bring your own!).

To descend, after reversing your route across the knife edge, some parties have chosen to downclimb the entire route, while others have rappelled about 120 feet down the east face (starting from just above the crux flake) to reach a steep, north-angling snow slope which offers a return route to the Helen Glacier.

Spearhead Pinnacle Map

Spearhead Pinnacle Panorama

Spearhead Pinnacle Photos

Spearhead Pinnacle’s sharp profile as seen from the summit of Woodrow Wilson; the normal ascent route climbs the left ridge (2020)

Spearhead (left) has been sight-leveled to be higher than Forked Tongue (right), so Spearhead qualifies as the only ranked 13er of this duo (2020)

Climbing scree and snow towards the col on the Continental Divide just north of Mount Helen on the approach to Spearhead (2020)

The Helen Glacier in pre-dawn light (2020)

A short snow couloir provides access to the ridge just north of Spearhead (2020)

Nearing the low-point of the Divide ridge extending north from Spearhead (2020)

Looking up at the north ridge of Spearhead Pinnacle, the only known climbing route on this obscure peak (2020)

The view northwest from Spearhead’s north ridge is dominated by Doublet, an unranked 13er, framed by Dinwoody Peak (unranked) on the left and Mount Warren on the right (2020)

After donning rock climbing shoes, I approach the base of Spearhead’s technical north ridge (2020)

The crux of the north ridge route involves stemming or chimneying up the inside of this large flake (2020)

Looking down from the top of the crux section after pulling a mantel move to exit the boxy flake system (2020)

The Helen Glacier sprawls out far below, still a bit before sunrise (2020)

From a knob atop the crux section, the summit of Spearhead Pinnacle suddenly appears, looking rather ferocious (2020)

The route crosses this horizontal knife edge section of the ridge to reach the summit cone (2020)

Scrambling steep, exposed granite slabs above the knife edge (2020)

Granite slabs with a few helpful cracks provide a route up the next section (2020)

The final summit block is a tall boulder split by some convenient cracks (2020)

Sunrise on Forked Tongue Pinnacle as seen from the summit of Spearhead (2020)

The Helen Glacier as seen from the top of Spearhead Pinnacle (2020)

The upper section of the north ridge route is a relatively easy blocky scramble, seen here in morning light on the descent (2020)

A last look at the pointy summit as I begin the descent of Spearhead Pinnacle (2020)

The beautiful north ridge forms a clean crest where the granite slabs are cut off sharply and gradually morph into a horizontal knife edge (2020)

The upper part of Spearhead, seen here from the knife edge, offers mellower climbing compared to the technical lower section of the route, despite appearing ferocious from afar (2020)

Back across the knife edge, I relish the view of Spearhead’s upper north ridge awash in glorious morning light, with Mount Helen in the background on the right (2020)

Preparing to rappel northeast from just above the crux section; I carried all my gear to the summit, so I could rappel more directly to the snow slopes below the ridgeline instead of reversing the entire route (2020)

Looking back up at the crux rock section on Spearhead Pinnacle’s north ridge, as seen while on rappel (2020)

The north ridge of Spearhead rises abruptly above a steep snow slope, which I used as a descent route after rappeling off the steep-sided ridge (2020)

Most of the lower north ridge route can be seen here above the snow slope (2020)

Departing view of Spearhead’s north ridge; I skirted the funky gendarme on the other (west) side on my ascent, and descended the left snow gulley after rappeling from the ridge (2020)

Rock fall is a very real danger in the mountains; this boulder fell onto the upper Helen Glacier from the high peaks directly above (2020)

Spearhead Pinnacle (right) and Forked Tongue Pinnacle (left) rise at the head of the Helen Glacier, with Mount Helen on the left edge; my access route from Titcomb topped out at the obvious col just north of Helen (2020)

Looking down to Spearhead (below the horizon) from high on Mount Warren; the north ridge route ascends the brownish rock line above the left-trending diagonal snow gulley (2020)

The classic shot of Spearhead and Forked Tongue as seen from the Helen Glacier (2020)

A smoky sunrise dawns over Titcomb Basin. The dense smoke wasn’t doing my lungs any favors, and I started coughing a lot more.

Looking up at Spearhead Pinnacle. To access the peak’s north ridge (the only known route, on the left skyline), I need to climb an endless pile of dirty talus up a gully to cross the Continental Divide at a col just north of Mount Helen.

At the col, I suddenly break into the sunlight and descend onto the Helen Glacier.

The glacier is in rougher shape than when I crossed it in July of 2020. Luckily, most of the crevasses are pretty small and easy to cross.

From the southeast, Spearhead is a confusing mess of towers and deep gullies. I stay relatively low on the low-angled part of the glacier and contour around to the north side.

This impressive looking granite face is actually the east buttress of Spearhead, hiding the summit and north ridge from this angle. The glacier is icy but low-angle and not too difficult to navigate.

I continue contouring across the glacier until I can scramble a couple hundred feet up an annoyingly loose dirt chute to reach the north ridge. The impressive peak in the center of this view is part of Doublet, an unranked 13er (subsummit of Mount Warren).

The crux of the north ridge route is a short vertical face on the east side of the crest. I found a slightly easier line this time and got up it without too much hesitation.

After the steep face, a short knife edge ridge poses the next challenge, then some slabs. It’s a well-rounded, interesting climb, even though it’s only a couple hundred feet in total.

Compared to the horror shows on some of the previous peaks, I’m positively enjoying dancing up Spearhead. The rock is good, I know the route, and for once there’s no sketchy ice!

True to its name, Spearhead is pointy. The summit blocks require a final bit of steeper scrambling, and the high point is excitingly narrow.

This view makes Dinwoody Peak (far right) look much more impressive than normal. In reality, it’s a relatively low-prominence subsummit of Doublet and Warren. Gannett, Pinnacle, and Woodrow Wilson are prominent in the background, with Bonney Pass below the horizon in the center. I’ll return that way this evening.

Looking south to Mount Helen from the summit of Spearhead. The sunlit summit in front is Forked Tongue Pinnacle–it’s slightly lower than Spearhead, so only the latter counts as a ranked 13er.

The eastern view overlooking the Helen Glacier is smoky today, but it gives the valley a cool mystical ambiance.

After enjoying my short stay on top and adding a pencil stub to the tiny summit register, it’s time to descend.

The upper part looks hard, but having grown up scrambling in the Flatirons, it fits nicely in my wheelhouse.

Straddle-and-scoot is my preferred method on the knife edge. It’s not too long, and it’s kind of fun to dangle my feet over a thousand feet of air.

Spearhead makes a nice sharp shadow in upper Titcomb. I wonder if anyone has ever tried climbing this west face? It looks like there’s a lot of loose stuff, but it’s broken enough that a route might be possible.

As I ascend Warren, I’m treated to a phenomenal view of Spearhead. The north ridge is on the right; most of the harder climbing is in the upper third.

Closeup of Spearhead (left) and Forked Tongue (right, unranked). I climbed the left ridge of Spearhead this morning.

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