Introduction

Like nearly every other 13er in this region, Split Mountain is well-named; the large cleft in its upper ramparts can be seen readily from points to the northeast or southwest. Despite its out-of-the-way location, Split Mountain is one of the easiest Wyoming 13ers in the northern Wind River Range.

General Considerations

Hikers on the popular off-trail route from Peak Lake to Titcomb Basin (or vice versa) over Knapsack Col could consider taking a side-trip to Split Mountain. Split is the easiest major summit in the Green River-Titcomb region, and the view from the top is quite rewarding.

Route 1: West Slopes – Class 2

Most climbers will approach this route from the Peak Lake Valley, which itself can be reached by the Shannon Pass Trail (from Green River Lakes or points south) or Knapsack Col (a popular backpacking route from Titcomb). From the basin north of Lake 10740, climb north toward the Whitecap-Split ridge, aiming for Split Mountain Pass, which is the broad saddle east of Point 12845 (also called G4).

A short scree gully provides passage through the final steep part of the ridge to gain Split Mountain Pass. This broad talus saddle can also be reached by climbing moderate snow slopes from the Mammoth Glacier (crevassed), enabling link-ups with other climbs such as the northwest slopes route on the Twin Peaks or an approach from Scott Lake. From Split Mountain Pass, the west slopes loom directly above; simply clamber up the moderately angled talus field to the top.