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Sunlit Summit

The Sunlit Summit

Trip Reports

Wyoming 13ers Guidebook

Wyoming 13ers Quest, The Sequel

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Day 3: Twins to American Legion (6 Peaks)

After my mentally draining experiences on Koven and Woodrow Wilson yesterday and the cumulative physical effect of climbing nearly 20,000 vertical feet in two days, I decided to take my third day a bit easier. Or at least, that was the plan! Thanks to some unexpected delays and fatigue keeping me from climbing at top speed, today would actually end up being the second longest day of the whole project.

The plan was to make a loop over all the remaining 13ers west of camp, which I dubbed the “Peak Lake Loop” since it roughly circles the Peak Lake valley. I had planned this loop for a long time–it seemed like a natural linkup, even though it would require losing and re-gaining thousand of feet of elevation to traverse the deep valleys between several of the peaks. As a bonus, none of the peaks in this cluster are harder than class 4, which would be a welcome reprieve from the harder climbing of the past day. With a light pack (no rope/harness or bivy gear), I set out from camp around 4:45 a.m., expecting to return a few hours before sunset. My first target was the Twin Peaks, a pair of sharp rock horns at the head of Titcomb Basin.

First light on the Twin Peaks. My route would follow a gully from the snowfield to the saddle. It's a snowclimb most of the summer, but a chossy gully in the late season.
A short section of icy snow encouraged me into crampons for a hundred feet, and then I scrambled up the melted-out gully. Without snow, the crux was a short slabby face that I'd call 5.0.
Dawn breaks over Titcomb Basin as I reach the saddle between the Twins. The elegant peak near the center is Mount Helen.
Dawn breaks over Titcomb Basin as I reach the saddle between the Twins. The elegant peak near the center is Mount Helen.
From the saddle between the East and West Twins, I can see across the Mammoth Glacier to Split Mountain, my next target.
From the saddle between the East and West Twins, I can see across the Mammoth Glacier to Split Mountain, my next target.
The summit rocks of the West Twin. The east and west summits of Twin Peaks are within a couple feet of the same elevation--and since LiDAR is not able to perfectly capture sharp spires like this, it's still unclear which summit is the true high point. Thus, it's conventional to visit both.
The summit rocks of the West Twin. The east and west summits of Twin Peaks are within a couple feet of the same elevation--and since LiDAR is not able to perfectly capture sharp spires like this, it's still unclear which summit is the true high point. Thus, it's conventional to visit both.
Sunrise on Henderson (illuminated, left), with American Legion still shadowed on the right. The short peak catching light in the foreground is Winifred, a 12er.
Sunrise on Henderson (illuminated, left), with American Legion still shadowed on the right. The short peak catching light in the foreground is Winifred, a 12er.
Behind the East Twin, the jagged crest of Mount Woodrow Wilson is backlit by the morning light. The west couloir is the dark fissure descending from just left of the summit.
Behind the East Twin, the jagged crest of Mount Woodrow Wilson is backlit by the morning light. The west couloir is the dark fissure descending from just left of the summit.
Looking back at the West Twin as I hike up the East Twin. The West Twin is a class 3 scramble, but the East Twin is only class 2 from the saddle. It only takes a few extra minutes to climb both.
Looking back at the West Twin as I hike up the East Twin. The West Twin is a class 3 scramble, but the East Twin is only class 2 from the saddle. It only takes a few extra minutes to climb both.
On the summit of the East Twin. I couldn't find the historic register that's supposed to be on this peak--I wonder if it got lost or stolen?
On the summit of the East Twin. I couldn't find the historic register that's supposed to be on this peak--I wonder if it got lost or stolen?
Now it's time to descend. I peer nervously down at the icy Mammoth Glacier, unsure what's in store.
Now it's time to descend. I peer nervously down at the icy Mammoth Glacier, unsure what's in store.
Dawn breaks over Titcomb Basin as I reach the saddle between the Twins. The elegant peak near the center is Mount Helen.
Dawn breaks over Titcomb Basin as I reach the saddle between the Twins. The elegant peak near the center is Mount Helen.
From the saddle between the East and West Twins, I can see across the Mammoth Glacier to Split Mountain, my next target.
From the saddle between the East and West Twins, I can see across the Mammoth Glacier to Split Mountain, my next target.
The summit rocks of the West Twin. The east and west summits of Twin Peaks are within a couple feet of the same elevation--and since LiDAR is not able to perfectly capture sharp spires like this, it's still unclear which summit is the true high point. Thus, it's conventional to visit both.
The summit rocks of the West Twin. The east and west summits of Twin Peaks are within a couple feet of the same elevation--and since LiDAR is not able to perfectly capture sharp spires like this, it's still unclear which summit is the true high point. Thus, it's conventional to visit both.
Sunrise on Henderson (illuminated, left), with American Legion still shadowed on the right. The short peak catching light in the foreground is Winifred, a 12er.
Sunrise on Henderson (illuminated, left), with American Legion still shadowed on the right. The short peak catching light in the foreground is Winifred, a 12er.
Behind the East Twin, the jagged crest of Mount Woodrow Wilson is backlit by the morning light. The west couloir is the dark fissure descending from just left of the summit.
Behind the East Twin, the jagged crest of Mount Woodrow Wilson is backlit by the morning light. The west couloir is the dark fissure descending from just left of the summit.
Looking back at the West Twin as I hike up the East Twin. The West Twin is a class 3 scramble, but the East Twin is only class 2 from the saddle. It only takes a few extra minutes to climb both.
Looking back at the West Twin as I hike up the East Twin. The West Twin is a class 3 scramble, but the East Twin is only class 2 from the saddle. It only takes a few extra minutes to climb both.
On the summit of the East Twin. I couldn't find the historic register that's supposed to be on this peak--I wonder if it got lost or stolen?
On the summit of the East Twin. I couldn't find the historic register that's supposed to be on this peak--I wonder if it got lost or stolen?
Now it's time to descend. I peer nervously down at the icy Mammoth Glacier, unsure what's in store.
Now it's time to descend. I peer nervously down at the icy Mammoth Glacier, unsure what's in store.

To continue from the Twins to my next objective, Split Mountain, the most logical route calls for dropping onto the Mammoth Glacier, traversing to Split Mountain Pass, and ascending easy talus from there. The alternative would be to retreat down my ascent route and cross Knapsack Col to approach Split from the other side, but this would be less efficient, and I hadn’t scouted the route.

My views of the Twin Peaks and Mammoth Glacier so far hadn’t been very encouraging. My planned route would require descending the prominent glacier lobe, which appeared to be completely bare, blue glacier ice. Worse, it looked to be guarded by a band of black water ice at the top.

However, bolstered by the (false?) confidence of having succeeded on Woodrow Wilson’s similarly icy slopes, I strapped on my crampons and decided to go for it.

Telephoto view of the Twin Peaks from Desolation (Day 1).

There were no holds so I had to use skill.   ~   Climbers’ saying

Bullet-proof refrozen water ice at the top of the Mammoth Glacier.

The lower section was indeed bare glacier ice, which was a bit sketchy, but it was at a lower angle than yesterday and I wasn’t too worried about that part. What I hadn’t expected, though, was that the upper hundred feet would be completely different from anything I’d ever climbed before. It was seasonal water ice that had melted from snow up higher and refrozen on top of the glacier as a glossy, dark gray sheet, slick as glass and hard as rock, with an angle around 40 degrees.

I probably should have backed off, and it might have even been faster to use the Knapsack Col detour given the conditions, but at this point I was mentally committed. I balanced gingerly on my crampons and swung my mountaineering axe above my head. It usually took two or three full-strength whacks to get a stick in the bullet-proof ice, because unlike a proper ice tool, the tip of a mountaineering axe is not designed for this sort of abuse. I knew there would be no way to self arrest if I slipped, and it was more than a thousand feet to the flat glacier below, with a worrisome band of crevasses waiting at the bottom of my fall line. It was painfully slow, but I made each movement deliberately and worked my way down one step at a time.

Most Wind River climbing accidents are attributable to three phenomena: loose rock, lightning, and the slipperiness of snow and ice.   ~   Joe Kelsey, Wind River guidebook author

This photo from the summit of Split Mountain gives a good overview of the difficulties on Twin Peaks. The shiny black ice just below the saddle was the sketchiest section. Descending the lower glacier lobe was mostly easier, albeit still quite icy.
The slightly softer glacier ice felt like a relief after the rock-hard water ice. Still, it was a long, steep slope, and I worked my way down slowly.
One of several large crevasses where the steep upper lobe meets the lower glacier. These were fairly easy to negotiate on snow bridges.
Looking back up at the face. The water ice band is the thin black strip that's barely visible at the top.

It took me the better part of an hour to descend a thousand vertical feet, perhaps the slowest I’ve ever moved without employing ropes. I’m not sure what that upper section would be rated–probably just WI1, but with a single mountaineering axe, it certainly felt serious. It was a good thing I had sharpened my old steel crampons earlier this summer! Back in the sun on the lower glacier, I tried to shake off the feeling that I had once again cheated fate–after all, wasn’t this supposed to be the easy day?!

The Mammoth Glacier is pretty heavily crevassed, but most of them were small enough to step across. I traversed around the buttress of Split Mountain quickly, both to make up for lost time and to avoid the threat of rockfall. One area of the glacier was particularly threatening, where huge piles of fractured rock littered the surface, obviously accumulating from the cliffs directly above.

Split Mountain as seen from the Mammoth Glacier. Note the small crevasse in the foreground, one of many in this area.
Split Mountain as seen from the Mammoth Glacier. Note the small crevasse in the foreground, one of many in this area.
Behind me, the north side of the Twins was still lurking in shadow.
Behind me, the north side of the Twins was still lurking in shadow.
The lower Mammoth Glacier is easy walking, which is why it makes such a tempting route. Here, Desolation Peak is visible in the distance.
The lower Mammoth Glacier is easy walking, which is why it makes such a tempting route. Here, Desolation Peak is visible in the distance.
I wonder why there are so many rocks on this section of the glacier? Oh. Huh. Interesting...
I wonder why there are so many rocks on this section of the glacier? Oh. Huh. Interesting...
It's interesting that many of the larger rocks end up sitting on pedestals of ice. I would expect the ice to melt faster due to the thermal mass of the rocks, but perhaps the rocks shade the ice under them enough to slow down the process of melting?
It's interesting that many of the larger rocks end up sitting on pedestals of ice. I would expect the ice to melt faster due to the thermal mass of the rocks, but perhaps the rocks shade the ice under them enough to slow down the process of melting?
Split Mountain as seen from the Mammoth Glacier. Note the small crevasse in the foreground, one of many in this area.
Split Mountain as seen from the Mammoth Glacier. Note the small crevasse in the foreground, one of many in this area.
Behind me, the north side of the Twins was still lurking in shadow.
Behind me, the north side of the Twins was still lurking in shadow.
The lower Mammoth Glacier is easy walking, which is why it makes such a tempting route. Here, Desolation Peak is visible in the distance.
The lower Mammoth Glacier is easy walking, which is why it makes such a tempting route. Here, Desolation Peak is visible in the distance.
I wonder why there are so many rocks on this section of the glacier? Oh. Huh. Interesting...
I wonder why there are so many rocks on this section of the glacier? Oh. Huh. Interesting...
It's interesting that many of the larger rocks end up sitting on pedestals of ice. I would expect the ice to melt faster due to the thermal mass of the rocks, but perhaps the rocks shade the ice under them enough to slow down the process of melting?
It's interesting that many of the larger rocks end up sitting on pedestals of ice. I would expect the ice to melt faster due to the thermal mass of the rocks, but perhaps the rocks shade the ice under them enough to slow down the process of melting?

I am for a life around the corner
That takes you by surprise
That comes leaves all you need
And more besides   ~   Roxy Music

Looking back over the Mammoth Glacier as I climb the north side of Split Mountain Pass.
On the summit of Split Mountain. It's a definite outlier in this area--the peaks visible all around are much harder.

A crazy guy, he’d rather die
Than be tied down   ~   Roxy Music

Split Mountain is one of the easiest 13ers, just a class 2 boulder hop from Split Mountain Pass. From its summit, I could see Whitecap, my next objective, a mile to the west.
Split Mountain is one of the easiest 13ers, just a class 2 boulder hop from Split Mountain Pass. From its summit, I could see Whitecap, my next objective, a mile to the west.
Bow Mountain, which I plan to climb later today, as seen from Split. I'm hoping to pioneer a new route up the right side of the sunlit cirque on Bow's north face.
Bow Mountain, which I plan to climb later today, as seen from Split. I'm hoping to pioneer a new route up the right side of the sunlit cirque on Bow's north face.
Looking back up at the west slope of Split Mountain after my round-trip from Split Mountain Pass.
Looking back up at the west slope of Split Mountain after my round-trip from Split Mountain Pass.
After descending into the Peak Lake valley, I traverse cross-country to the base of Whitecap's southern face, climbing a broad talus rib.
After descending into the Peak Lake valley, I traverse cross-country to the base of Whitecap's southern face, climbing a broad talus rib.
The south side of Whitecap makes a good snow climb earlier in the season, but by now it's all rubble.
The south side of Whitecap makes a good snow climb earlier in the season, but by now it's all rubble.
The summit of Mount Whitecap is snow-free this late in the summer. This view looks northeast to Flagstone, Desolation (below the horizon), Grasshopper, Bastion, Koven, and Gannett.
The summit of Mount Whitecap is snow-free this late in the summer. This view looks northeast to Flagstone, Desolation (below the horizon), Grasshopper, Bastion, Koven, and Gannett.
Summit view from Whitecap looking north across the Wells Creek and Tourist Creek valleys.
Summit view from Whitecap looking north across the Wells Creek and Tourist Creek valleys.
Split Mountain is one of the easiest 13ers, just a class 2 boulder hop from Split Mountain Pass. From its summit, I could see Whitecap, my next objective, a mile to the west.
Split Mountain is one of the easiest 13ers, just a class 2 boulder hop from Split Mountain Pass. From its summit, I could see Whitecap, my next objective, a mile to the west.
Bow Mountain, which I plan to climb later today, as seen from Split. I'm hoping to pioneer a new route up the right side of the sunlit cirque on Bow's north face.
Bow Mountain, which I plan to climb later today, as seen from Split. I'm hoping to pioneer a new route up the right side of the sunlit cirque on Bow's north face.
Looking back up at the west slope of Split Mountain after my round-trip from Split Mountain Pass.
Looking back up at the west slope of Split Mountain after my round-trip from Split Mountain Pass.
After descending into the Peak Lake valley, I traverse cross-country to the base of Whitecap's southern face, climbing a broad talus rib.
After descending into the Peak Lake valley, I traverse cross-country to the base of Whitecap's southern face, climbing a broad talus rib.
The south side of Whitecap makes a good snow climb earlier in the season, but by now it's all rubble.
The south side of Whitecap makes a good snow climb earlier in the season, but by now it's all rubble.
The summit of Mount Whitecap is snow-free this late in the summer. This view looks northeast to Flagstone, Desolation (below the horizon), Grasshopper, Bastion, Koven, and Gannett.
The summit of Mount Whitecap is snow-free this late in the summer. This view looks northeast to Flagstone, Desolation (below the horizon), Grasshopper, Bastion, Koven, and Gannett.
Summit view from Whitecap looking north across the Wells Creek and Tourist Creek valleys.
Summit view from Whitecap looking north across the Wells Creek and Tourist Creek valleys.
Mount Koven as seen from Whitecap. It's a small mountain, but not one to be trifled with.
Peak Lake gleams far below.

Split and Whitecap delivered just what I needed: finally, a couple easy summits with no unpleasant surprises! I called my dad from the top of Whitecap to catch up and take the edge off my nerves. He was kind to always be willing to chat when I called from random summits, and it was nice to know that there was someone following the Delorme track. We discussed my plan to climb an unreported route on Bow’s north face, and he agreed it looked doable. I was waffling at this point because “shortcuts” didn’t sound appealing after my misadventures on Koven and the Twins, but if it worked, the route would save me a couple miles.

I had cell service on most summits, which I would use to check my email (I was still technically supposed to be in grad school, after all) and download new weather forecasts. Today, I got an email from Teresa congratulating me on the previous day’s technical traverse, which touched me–a few years ago, I could only dream of repeating the climbs that Teresa, Sarah, and their group completed on these peaks. Knowing that one of my peakbagging heroes was following along added a bit more inspiration that helped me keep up a fast pace as I descended and crossed the valley to explore my new line on Bow.

After reversing my route on Whitecap, I contoured along a rocky bench towards the upper Peak Lake valley. From left to right, the visible peaks are West Twin, Winifred (12er), American Legion, and Arrowhead (high 12er).
After reversing my route on Whitecap, I contoured along a rocky bench towards the upper Peak Lake valley. From left to right, the visible peaks are West Twin, Winifred (12er), American Legion, and Arrowhead (high 12er).
It was getting hot, and I was glad to splash some water on my face as I passed this unnamed lake. This view looks back to Whitecap.
It was getting hot, and I was glad to splash some water on my face as I passed this unnamed lake. This view looks back to Whitecap.
Overview of the upper Peak Lake Valley. I needed to cross the grassy meadow, find a way through the lower cliff band, then traverse right along the moraine.
Overview of the upper Peak Lake Valley. I needed to cross the grassy meadow, find a way through the lower cliff band, then traverse right along the moraine.
This unranked spire is called Sulphur Peak. It's very impressive from this side, but it's connected to Bow via a high ridgeline to the south.
This unranked spire is called Sulphur Peak. It's very impressive from this side, but it's connected to Bow via a high ridgeline to the south.
Glacial rock flour gives this small tarn its beautiful color.
Glacial rock flour gives this small tarn its beautiful color.
The south face of Split Mountain. I descended via Split Mountain Pass, which is the left-most saddle.
The south face of Split Mountain. I descended via Split Mountain Pass, which is the left-most saddle.
One of the outlet streams from the Stroud Glacier flows through this steep cleft, providing reasonable passage through the cliffs to the moraine above.
One of the outlet streams from the Stroud Glacier flows through this steep cleft, providing reasonable passage through the cliffs to the moraine above.
From the edge of the moraine, I have my first closeup view of the route. I'm planning to meet the shadowed ridge at the saddle on the right.
From the edge of the moraine, I have my first closeup view of the route. I'm planning to meet the shadowed ridge at the saddle on the right.
Milky glacial water in the unnamed lake below the Stroud Glacier. I failed to collect drinking water from the clear streams down lower, so I reluctantly dipped a bottle from the lake.
Milky glacial water in the unnamed lake below the Stroud Glacier. I failed to collect drinking water from the clear streams down lower, so I reluctantly dipped a bottle from the lake.
My route ascends a mix of scree and polished slabs above the lake. It would be a snow climb earlier in the summer.
My route ascends a mix of scree and polished slabs above the lake. It would be a snow climb earlier in the summer.
Arrowhead, the second highest 12er in Wyoming, cuts a dramatic profile above the Stroud Glacier. The obvious sunlit peak is American Legion, with the West Twin and Warren visible on the left.
Arrowhead, the second highest 12er in Wyoming, cuts a dramatic profile above the Stroud Glacier. The obvious sunlit peak is American Legion, with the West Twin and Warren visible on the left.
After reversing my route on Whitecap, I contoured along a rocky bench towards the upper Peak Lake valley. From left to right, the visible peaks are West Twin, Winifred (12er), American Legion, and Arrowhead (high 12er).
After reversing my route on Whitecap, I contoured along a rocky bench towards the upper Peak Lake valley. From left to right, the visible peaks are West Twin, Winifred (12er), American Legion, and Arrowhead (high 12er).
It was getting hot, and I was glad to splash some water on my face as I passed this unnamed lake. This view looks back to Whitecap.
It was getting hot, and I was glad to splash some water on my face as I passed this unnamed lake. This view looks back to Whitecap.
Overview of the upper Peak Lake Valley. I needed to cross the grassy meadow, find a way through the lower cliff band, then traverse right along the moraine.
Overview of the upper Peak Lake Valley. I needed to cross the grassy meadow, find a way through the lower cliff band, then traverse right along the moraine.
This unranked spire is called Sulphur Peak. It's very impressive from this side, but it's connected to Bow via a high ridgeline to the south.
This unranked spire is called Sulphur Peak. It's very impressive from this side, but it's connected to Bow via a high ridgeline to the south.
Glacial rock flour gives this small tarn its beautiful color.
Glacial rock flour gives this small tarn its beautiful color.
The south face of Split Mountain. I descended via Split Mountain Pass, which is the left-most saddle.
The south face of Split Mountain. I descended via Split Mountain Pass, which is the left-most saddle.
One of the outlet streams from the Stroud Glacier flows through this steep cleft, providing reasonable passage through the cliffs to the moraine above.
One of the outlet streams from the Stroud Glacier flows through this steep cleft, providing reasonable passage through the cliffs to the moraine above.
From the edge of the moraine, I have my first closeup view of the route. I'm planning to meet the shadowed ridge at the saddle on the right.
From the edge of the moraine, I have my first closeup view of the route. I'm planning to meet the shadowed ridge at the saddle on the right.
Milky glacial water in the unnamed lake below the Stroud Glacier. I failed to collect drinking water from the clear streams down lower, so I reluctantly dipped a bottle from the lake.
Milky glacial water in the unnamed lake below the Stroud Glacier. I failed to collect drinking water from the clear streams down lower, so I reluctantly dipped a bottle from the lake.
My route ascends a mix of scree and polished slabs above the lake. It would be a snow climb earlier in the summer.
My route ascends a mix of scree and polished slabs above the lake. It would be a snow climb earlier in the summer.
Arrowhead, the second highest 12er in Wyoming, cuts a dramatic profile above the Stroud Glacier. The obvious sunlit peak is American Legion, with the West Twin and Warren visible on the left.
Arrowhead, the second highest 12er in Wyoming, cuts a dramatic profile above the Stroud Glacier. The obvious sunlit peak is American Legion, with the West Twin and Warren visible on the left.
The lower section of the route ascends endless talus, aiming for subtle Bow-Brimstone col. Brimstone is the spire on the right, an unranked summit on the ridge between Bow and Sulphur.
The upper section is a bit sketchy, with loose rock and slippery sand on top of steep rock slabs and hardpan gullies. It goes though, and before long I'm on the ridge.
After a short scrambling section above the col, I walk toward the high point along Bow's broad summit plateau.
Feeling beat on the summit of Bow.

I’m feeling pretty beat by the time I make it to Bow, and it’s already 2:45 p.m., which means I only have another 5 hours until sunset. It’s clear that I won’t make it back to camp with much daylight to spare, but I’m still hoping to climb Henderson and American Legion. It’s difficult to eat adequately on days like this, because it’s just hour after hour of aerobic exercise, which uses a lot of calories but leaves me without much appetite. I force myself to eat as much as I can stomach, make another quick call home, and head down.

The summit of Bow Mountain.
The summit of Bow Mountain.
American Legion is less than a mile away from here, but a direct traverse would be impractical: the connecting ridge is one of the most jagged in the whole range. Instead, I'll have to drop 2,000 ft. into the Jean Lakes valley, then re-ascend.
American Legion is less than a mile away from here, but a direct traverse would be impractical: the connecting ridge is one of the most jagged in the whole range. Instead, I'll have to drop 2,000 ft. into the Jean Lakes valley, then re-ascend.
Looking north from Bow. I ascended from the lake far below. If you count carefully, a dozen 13ers are visible in this photo.
Looking north from Bow. I ascended from the lake far below. If you count carefully, a dozen 13ers are visible in this photo.
I descend the southwest couloir, the same route I used in 2020 (as a snow climb). It's melted out now, and while most of it is easy hiking, these giant chockstones required some bouldering moves to get past.
I descend the southwest couloir, the same route I used in 2020 (as a snow climb). It's melted out now, and while most of it is easy hiking, these giant chockstones required some bouldering moves to get past.
I descended a bit farther than necessary since I wasn't sure if an upper traverse would cliff out, then followed this small creek valley around the southeast corner of Bow. The peaks are Arrowhead (left) and American Legion (right).
I descended a bit farther than necessary since I wasn't sure if an upper traverse would cliff out, then followed this small creek valley around the southeast corner of Bow. The peaks are Arrowhead (left) and American Legion (right).
Henderson looms overhead as I cross a tiny pass to move into an adjoining valley. I plan to climb the ridge on the left skyline.
Henderson looms overhead as I cross a tiny pass to move into an adjoining valley. I plan to climb the ridge on the left skyline.
American Legion (left) and Henderson (right) above Lake 11,665. Both peaks can be combined neatly by climbing the ridges that start at their mutual col.
American Legion (left) and Henderson (right) above Lake 11,665. Both peaks can be combined neatly by climbing the ridges that start at their mutual col.
American Legion is a stately peak. I was running out of water again and reluctantly dipped some from the lake, which was clear but had some funky water bugs swimming in it. Nice...
American Legion is a stately peak. I was running out of water again and reluctantly dipped some from the lake, which was clear but had some funky water bugs swimming in it. Nice...
Swimming through the talus toward the Henderson-American Legion col.
Swimming through the talus toward the Henderson-American Legion col.
This view from just below the col shows Henderson's long north ridge stretching away to the summit. It's longer and more complicated than I remembered.
This view from just below the col shows Henderson's long north ridge stretching away to the summit. It's longer and more complicated than I remembered.
The summit of Bow Mountain.
The summit of Bow Mountain.
American Legion is less than a mile away from here, but a direct traverse would be impractical: the connecting ridge is one of the most jagged in the whole range. Instead, I'll have to drop 2,000 ft. into the Jean Lakes valley, then re-ascend.
American Legion is less than a mile away from here, but a direct traverse would be impractical: the connecting ridge is one of the most jagged in the whole range. Instead, I'll have to drop 2,000 ft. into the Jean Lakes valley, then re-ascend.
Looking north from Bow. I ascended from the lake far below. If you count carefully, a dozen 13ers are visible in this photo.
Looking north from Bow. I ascended from the lake far below. If you count carefully, a dozen 13ers are visible in this photo.
I descend the southwest couloir, the same route I used in 2020 (as a snow climb). It's melted out now, and while most of it is easy hiking, these giant chockstones required some bouldering moves to get past.
I descend the southwest couloir, the same route I used in 2020 (as a snow climb). It's melted out now, and while most of it is easy hiking, these giant chockstones required some bouldering moves to get past.
I descended a bit farther than necessary since I wasn't sure if an upper traverse would cliff out, then followed this small creek valley around the southeast corner of Bow. The peaks are Arrowhead (left) and American Legion (right).
I descended a bit farther than necessary since I wasn't sure if an upper traverse would cliff out, then followed this small creek valley around the southeast corner of Bow. The peaks are Arrowhead (left) and American Legion (right).
Henderson looms overhead as I cross a tiny pass to move into an adjoining valley. I plan to climb the ridge on the left skyline.
Henderson looms overhead as I cross a tiny pass to move into an adjoining valley. I plan to climb the ridge on the left skyline.
American Legion (left) and Henderson (right) above Lake 11,665. Both peaks can be combined neatly by climbing the ridges that start at their mutual col.
American Legion (left) and Henderson (right) above Lake 11,665. Both peaks can be combined neatly by climbing the ridges that start at their mutual col.
American Legion is a stately peak. I was running out of water again and reluctantly dipped some from the lake, which was clear but had some funky water bugs swimming in it. Nice...
American Legion is a stately peak. I was running out of water again and reluctantly dipped some from the lake, which was clear but had some funky water bugs swimming in it. Nice...
Swimming through the talus toward the Henderson-American Legion col.
Swimming through the talus toward the Henderson-American Legion col.
This view from just below the col shows Henderson's long north ridge stretching away to the summit. It's longer and more complicated than I remembered.
This view from just below the col shows Henderson's long north ridge stretching away to the summit. It's longer and more complicated than I remembered.

When I finally reach the Henderson-American Legion col, I’m disheartened to see how long the shadows are growing in Titcomb. A brief fantasy of saving these peaks for another day crosses my mind, but I know that’s not a realistic plan. I decide to climb Henderson first, since it’s much more technical than American Legion, and I don’t want to get stuck scrambling in the dark.

In 2020, I really enjoyed climbing Henderson’s north ridge, but at this point it just feels like another complicated chore. The scrambling is more involved and slower than I remembered, and while I was hoping to make a round-trip ascent from the col in under an hour, it takes me 50 minutes just to reach the summit. By the time I touch the highest rock, it’s only an hour before sunset. I still have to downclimb the north ridge, make a round-trip ascent of American Legion, descend a thousand feet of scree to Summer Ice Lake, and find my way down a complicated rock buttress into Titcomb Basin. This isn’t exactly turning out to be the restful evening I had anticipated!

Shadows lengthen over Summer Ice Lake, as seen from low on Henderson's north ridge.
The north ridge of Henderson Peak is an endless 4th class scramble, which is great when you're rested and enjoying it but a considerable annoyance when you just want it to be over.
The north ridge of Henderson Peak is an endless 4th class scramble, which is great when you're rested and enjoying it but a considerable annoyance when you just want it to be over.
Looking down the north ridge from about halfway up.
Looking down the north ridge from about halfway up.
Almost to the top. I keep pushing back my summit time since the scrambling is slower than anticipated.
Almost to the top. I keep pushing back my summit time since the scrambling is slower than anticipated.
At last, I made it to the summit. The Titcomb Needles, a bunch of minor spires on the west side of Titcomb, are accentuated by the low-angle light.
At last, I made it to the summit. The Titcomb Needles, a bunch of minor spires on the west side of Titcomb, are accentuated by the low-angle light.
The hard-earned summit block of Henderson Peak. American Legion is the shadowed peak on the right.
The hard-earned summit block of Henderson Peak. American Legion is the shadowed peak on the right.
American Legion is mostly just a talus slog via its south slopes, seen here, but at this point I'm painfully aware of the waning daylight.
American Legion is mostly just a talus slog via its south slopes, seen here, but at this point I'm painfully aware of the waning daylight.
Back at the base of the ridge, a half hour before sunset, I grab some candy and begin my ascent of American Legion. I can see the sunset starting to light up Henderson, and I'm eager to get some photos from up higher.
Back at the base of the ridge, a half hour before sunset, I grab some candy and begin my ascent of American Legion. I can see the sunset starting to light up Henderson, and I'm eager to get some photos from up higher.
The north ridge of Henderson Peak is an endless 4th class scramble, which is great when you're rested and enjoying it but a considerable annoyance when you just want it to be over.
The north ridge of Henderson Peak is an endless 4th class scramble, which is great when you're rested and enjoying it but a considerable annoyance when you just want it to be over.
Looking down the north ridge from about halfway up.
Looking down the north ridge from about halfway up.
Almost to the top. I keep pushing back my summit time since the scrambling is slower than anticipated.
Almost to the top. I keep pushing back my summit time since the scrambling is slower than anticipated.
At last, I made it to the summit. The Titcomb Needles, a bunch of minor spires on the west side of Titcomb, are accentuated by the low-angle light.
At last, I made it to the summit. The Titcomb Needles, a bunch of minor spires on the west side of Titcomb, are accentuated by the low-angle light.
The hard-earned summit block of Henderson Peak. American Legion is the shadowed peak on the right.
The hard-earned summit block of Henderson Peak. American Legion is the shadowed peak on the right.
American Legion is mostly just a talus slog via its south slopes, seen here, but at this point I'm painfully aware of the waning daylight.
American Legion is mostly just a talus slog via its south slopes, seen here, but at this point I'm painfully aware of the waning daylight.
Back at the base of the ridge, a half hour before sunset, I grab some candy and begin my ascent of American Legion. I can see the sunset starting to light up Henderson, and I'm eager to get some photos from up higher.
Back at the base of the ridge, a half hour before sunset, I grab some candy and begin my ascent of American Legion. I can see the sunset starting to light up Henderson, and I'm eager to get some photos from up higher.
Amazing sunsets are the reward for getting behind schedule in the alpine. Henderson was really starting to look gorgeous in the golden light as I made my way up American Legion.
Over on the other side of Titcomb Basin, the great wall between Sacagawea and Fremont lit up bright orange, interrupted only by the sharp shadows of Henderson and American Legion.

And you run and you run to catch up with the sun, but it’s sinking
Racing around to come up behind you again   ~   Pink Floyd

Sunset on Henderson Peak an hour after I stood on top.
Alpenglow catches the west face of Mount Helen, always the star of the show in upper Titcomb.
Alpenglow catches the west face of Mount Helen, always the star of the show in upper Titcomb.
Twilight brings softer colors to the dramatic landscape around Summer Ice Lake. Henderson is obvious on the right, Harrower is visible in the distant center, and the two high peaks on the left are Sacagawea and Fremont.
Twilight brings softer colors to the dramatic landscape around Summer Ice Lake. Henderson is obvious on the right, Harrower is visible in the distant center, and the two high peaks on the left are Sacagawea and Fremont.
High above, a jet leaves a short contrail in the evening sky. It's somehow comforting to think about all the people up there, a little reminder of humanity while I'm totally alone on this remote ridge.
High above, a jet leaves a short contrail in the evening sky. It's somehow comforting to think about all the people up there, a little reminder of humanity while I'm totally alone on this remote ridge.
From a false summit, I can see Bow Mountain to the west. The sun is below the horizon now, but the light will remain a little while longer.
From a false summit, I can see Bow Mountain to the west. The sun is below the horizon now, but the light will remain a little while longer.
After the first false summit, the south ridge gets a bit steeper, requiring some easy scrambling to gain a second false summit.
After the first false summit, the south ridge gets a bit steeper, requiring some easy scrambling to gain a second false summit.
By now, I'm at or above Henderson's summit elevation, but the peak doesn't look any less impressive. I climbed the ridge separating shadow and light.
By now, I'm at or above Henderson's summit elevation, but the peak doesn't look any less impressive. I climbed the ridge separating shadow and light.
From a notch in the second false summit, the final climb up American Legion requires another short scramble. It's almost in reach!
From a notch in the second false summit, the final climb up American Legion requires another short scramble. It's almost in reach!
At last, I touch American Legion's uniquely sharp summit rock. After a quick call to update my dad on my progress and plans, I dig out my headlamp and hurry back down.
At last, I touch American Legion's uniquely sharp summit rock. After a quick call to update my dad on my progress and plans, I dig out my headlamp and hurry back down.
Alpenglow catches the west face of Mount Helen, always the star of the show in upper Titcomb.
Alpenglow catches the west face of Mount Helen, always the star of the show in upper Titcomb.
Twilight brings softer colors to the dramatic landscape around Summer Ice Lake. Henderson is obvious on the right, Harrower is visible in the distant center, and the two high peaks on the left are Sacagawea and Fremont.
Twilight brings softer colors to the dramatic landscape around Summer Ice Lake. Henderson is obvious on the right, Harrower is visible in the distant center, and the two high peaks on the left are Sacagawea and Fremont.
High above, a jet leaves a short contrail in the evening sky. It's somehow comforting to think about all the people up there, a little reminder of humanity while I'm totally alone on this remote ridge.
High above, a jet leaves a short contrail in the evening sky. It's somehow comforting to think about all the people up there, a little reminder of humanity while I'm totally alone on this remote ridge.
From a false summit, I can see Bow Mountain to the west. The sun is below the horizon now, but the light will remain a little while longer.
From a false summit, I can see Bow Mountain to the west. The sun is below the horizon now, but the light will remain a little while longer.
After the first false summit, the south ridge gets a bit steeper, requiring some easy scrambling to gain a second false summit.
After the first false summit, the south ridge gets a bit steeper, requiring some easy scrambling to gain a second false summit.
By now, I'm at or above Henderson's summit elevation, but the peak doesn't look any less impressive. I climbed the ridge separating shadow and light.
By now, I'm at or above Henderson's summit elevation, but the peak doesn't look any less impressive. I climbed the ridge separating shadow and light.
From a notch in the second false summit, the final climb up American Legion requires another short scramble. It's almost in reach!
From a notch in the second false summit, the final climb up American Legion requires another short scramble. It's almost in reach!
At last, I touch American Legion's uniquely sharp summit rock. After a quick call to update my dad on my progress and plans, I dig out my headlamp and hurry back down.
At last, I touch American Legion's uniquely sharp summit rock. After a quick call to update my dad on my progress and plans, I dig out my headlamp and hurry back down.

I made it up all 6 peaks as planned, but it was still a long way down. By the time I got back to the Henderson-American Legion saddle it was fully dark, and I slid my way down the scree and talus above Summer Ice Lake by headlamp. It took forever to get around the lake due to the interminable talus and frequently rim-rocked shoreline. Eventually, I climbed over a slight buttress and could see the light of our basecamp tent far below. Getting down into the basin involved some tricky routefinding through slabby cliff bands and annoying willow bushes, but I could smell the hay and tried to move quickly.

I could just discern the shapes of Henderson and American Legion towering above me from the boulder field above Summer Ice Lake.
Mount Helen looked ghostly in the moonlight as I descended to camp.
Bashing through some willows as I finish descending into Titcomb Basin. The tiny spot of light near the center is the tent.

I made it back to camp around 10:45 p.m., a full 18 hours after I started. The stars were beautiful above the peaks, but all I wanted was to take off my boots and lie in my sleeping bag until I could recover enough to eat. I think my mom half expected me to quit at this point, since I was so beaten up, but in my mind I couldn’t go through so much and give up now. I had originally planned to spend 5 days in the northern Winds, but I still had a shot at the record even if I used up 6 days, so I dialed back the plan for tomorrow and finally fell asleep sometime around midnight.

Daily Stats: 16.3 miles, +11,600 ft., 18 hours climbing time, 18/36 thirteeners

Day 3 Map (click to enlarge)
Day 3 Profile (click to enlarge)
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