American Legion Peak

Elevation: 13,205 ft.

Prominence: 957 ft.

Isolation: 1.5 miles

Technical Difficulty: Class 3

American Legion Peak Guidebook

Introduction

On the other side of Titcomb Basin from the great wall of Spearhead-Helen-Sacagawea-Fremont, a pair of handsome peaks rises above Summer Ice Lake. While lower and not as steep-walled, these peaks nevertheless offer superb mountaineering in a picturesque wilderness setting. The easier of the two western Titcomb 13ers is American Legion Peak, the only class 3 summit in this chapter of the guidebook.

American Legion offers a good vantage over this part of the range, as it sits at the apex of the Jean Lakes, Peak Lake, and Titcomb cirques. This mountain is also called Buchtel Peak after the pioneering Wind River climber and leader of various mountain clubs, who led the first ascent of the peak.

General Considerations

American Legion Peak can be equally well approached from Titcomb Basin or Upper Jean Lake, and your choice of approach will likely be determined by any additional objectives. Entrepreneurial climbers have reported additional routes on American Legion beyond the ones described here, but few details are available and climbers are encouraged to explore off the beaten path on their own.

Route 1: South Ridge – Class 3+

This route begins from the Henderson-American Legion col, which can be reached from the west by climbing scree above Lake 11665 or from the east by a mix of snow and talus above Summer Ice Lake. From the pass, hike up steep but easy rubble slopes heading north. The mellow south slopes end abruptly at a false summit, and the last couple hundred feet of the climb is a scramble.

Climb along the blocky ridge to a second false summit, downclimb slightly to the west, and scramble up a broken face past a large white dike to reach the summit. The highest rock is a giant fin-like boulder standing on its narrow edge, but there is sufficient space all around the boulder to rest and enjoy the view.

Route 2: Southwest Slopes – Class 3+

This is a more direct route from the Jean Lakes district to American Legion, and arguably the easiest overall way to climb this mountain, though the south ridge is more scenic and enjoyable. From Lake 11665, hike north in a shallow valley to about 12,200 ft., where breaks in the cliff bands allow you to ascend climber’s right.

Clamber up talus (possibly with some snow) on American Legion’s southwest face, which becomes a shallow gully near the top. Join the south ridge route near the final false summit, and finish the route with a short scramble on blocky terrain to reach the top.

American Legion Peak Map

Click title to show track

South Ridge Route
Southwest Slopes Route

American Legion Peak Panorama

American Legion Peak Photos

American Legion (right) rises above Summer Ice Lake and is the highest peak on the western wall of Titcomb Basin, seen here from the side of Fremont Peak (2016)

Left to right: Henderson, American Legion, Arrowhead (distant 12er), Twin Peaks, as seen from the Sphinx (2020)

The symmetric snow-clad profile of American Legion Peak (just right of center) in June conditions (2020)

Crossing the bridge over Fremont Creek on my approach to the Jean Lakes (2020)

Basecamp above Upper Jean Lake the night before my solo climb (2020)

The south slopes of American Legion as seen from the American Legion-Henderson col; I climbed Henderson first (2020)

American Legion Peak looking dramatic with an early morning storm brewing (2020)

Sunrise splashes across the south ridge of American Legion Peak as seen from high on Henderson (2020)

Overview of the standard (south ridge) climbing route on American Legion Peak (2020)

The south ridge route begins with a rubble slope above the col (2020)

Topping out on the first false summit, and the beginning of the scrambling (2020)

Looking towards the second false summit with a bit of intervening scrambling (2020)

The view back down the route is dominated by Henderson Peak (right), with Titcomb Basin and Fremont Peak visible on the left side (2020)

Moderate scrambling on the upper ridge (2020)

The summit comes into view from the second false summit and requires some blocky scrambling to reach the top (2020)

Looking north to Winifred Peak (low, close) and various Wyoming 13ers from the summit of American Legion Peak (2020)

View of Bow Mountain as seen from the top of American Legion; the ominous clouds opened up into a thunderstorm a half-hour later (2020)

The summit of American Legion Peak is a narrow stone standing on its edge (2020)

Descending the southwest slopes on moderate talus and snow (2020)

Returning to the still-frozen basin above the Jean Lakes (2020)

Looking back to American Legion from the base of the southwest slopes route (2020)

After the thunderstorm cleared, I enjoyed the veiw of American Legion (just left of center ) from the summit of Bow Mountain (2020)

Parting shot of American Legion, Henderson, Bow, and other peaks in the Jean Lakes region from Miller Park on the long hike out the Pole Creek Trail to Elkhart Park (2020)

American Legion (right) from Mount Helen; the south ridge route climbs the left ridge (2020)

Dawn breaks over American Legion (closest, right side) and Henderson (left) as seen from Twin Peaks (2020)

After reversing my route on Whitecap, I contoured along a rocky bench towards the upper Peak Lake valley. From left to right, the visible peaks are West Twin, Winifred (12er), American Legion, and Arrowhead (high 12er).

Arrowhead, the second highest 12er in Wyoming, cuts a dramatic profile above the Stroud Glacier. The obvious sunlit peak is American Legion, with the West Twin and Warren visible on the left.

I descended a bit farther than necessary since I wasn’t sure if an upper traverse would cliff out, then followed this small creek valley around the southeast corner of Bow. The peaks are Arrowhead (left) and American Legion (right).

American Legion is a stately peak. I was running out of water again and reluctantly dipped some from the lake, which was clear but had some funky water bugs swimming in it. Nice…

American Legion is mostly just a talus slog via its south slopes, seen here, but at this point I’m painfully aware of the waning daylight.

Over on the other side of Titcomb Basin, the great wall between Sacagawea and Fremont lit up bright orange, interrupted only by the sharp shadows of Henderson and American Legion.

After the first false summit, the south ridge gets a bit steeper, requiring some easy scrambling to gain a second false summit.

From a notch in the second false summit, the final climb up American Legion requires another short scramble. It’s almost in reach!

At last, I touch American Legion’s uniquely sharp summit rock. After a quick call to update my dad on my progress and plans, I dig out my headlamp and hurry back down.

I could just discern the shapes of Henderson and American Legion towering above me from the boulder field above Summer Ice Lake.

Mount Helen looked ghostly in the moonlight as I descended to camp.

Sunrise on Henderson (left) and American Legion (right). I climbed them from their mutual saddle and descended the scree slope in the middle on day 3.

Shadows lengthen on Henderson and American Legion (left and right, respectively). With all of the 5th class rock and routefinding unknowns behind me, I can finally start to appreciate the grandeur of this place.

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The Sunlit Summit

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Wyoming 13ers Guidebook