Bow Mountain

Elevation: 13,027 ft.

Prominence: 689 ft.

Isolation: 0.9 miles

Technical Difficulty: Class 3

Bow Mountain Guidebook

Introduction

Perhaps the most notable thing about Bow Mountain is that its northern cirque harbors the Stroud Glacier, the official headwaters of the Green River. Thus, snow falling off the summit of this mellow 13er could be seen as the “top” of the Colorado River in some sense. Despite the complexity of the Bow Mountain massif, it does not seem to be particularly popular with climbers or mountaineers, likely due to its substantial isolation from the higher, more-famous peak groupings nearby.

General Considerations

Bow Mountain is inconvenient to climb from most major camping destinations in the northern Wind River region, which makes it difficult to arrange an aesthetic itinerary combining Bow with other 13ers. However, the Jean Lakes area is nonetheless spectacular, and you are all but guaranteed solitude on this peak. Assuming the requisite gear and experience, a climb of Bow could also be a worthwhile diversion for backpackers on the Highline Trail or Shannon Pass Trail, which meet near the base of the southwest couloir.

Route 1: West Slopes – Class 3

This is likely the easiest route to the summit of Bow, but it is inconvenient to combine with most other peaks. Bow Mountain consists of a flat-topped ridge surrounded by steep cliffs on most sides. The west side is Bow’s least steep aspect, and once the upper plateau is gained, the summit is readily available.

From the Shannon Pass Trail just south of Shannon Pass, hike cross-country up the slopes between Bow and Stroud. Climb northwest up talus and scree towards the Bow-Brimstone col. A few short cliff bands block easy passage on Bow’s lower west ridge, but the blocky terrain on the south side of the ridge is class 3. Link short scrambling sections with talus gullies to reach the upper west ridge, then hike a quarter mile west along the gradually rising talus peneplain to reach the summit boulders, precipitously perched at the edge of the cliff above the Stroud Glacier.

Route 2: Southwest Couloir – Class 3, Moderate Snow

From the Highline Trail near its intersection with the Shannon Pass trail above Lake 10935, hike cross-country up a small, shallow valley towards the imposing bulk of Bow’s south face. The southwest couloir is hidden behind a fold of rock, and it is hard to identify the base from afar. Skirt the base of Bow Mountain’s cliff band until you identify the obvious breach where the couloir begins (the northeast-angling gully can be seen on USGS topo maps, and a GPS with onboard maps may be useful for finding the start of the route).

The climb is rather enjoyable in the early season, when consolidated snow fills in the couloir, but much of the snow melts out early, and by midsummer the route involves lots of loose scree with some larger chockstones. Getting around the largest chockstone requires a few class 4+ boulder moves when the snow is completely melted.

The southwest couloir is easy to follow and consistently angles climber’s right until it abruptly tops out, where you emerge onto the broad summit talus field. Make a note of the location of the couloir’s top so you can identify it on the descent, and hike up a few hundred feet over frost-shattered blocks to the summit.

Route 3: North Side – Class 3+, Moderate Snow

This route’s superb position almost makes up for its lackluster climbing. Nevertheless, it is the only non-technical way to summit Bow from the north, thus making this peak accessible from the upper Peak Lake valley.

From Peak Lake, a trail continues up the valley past Lake 10740, eventually fading out as it merges with the popular cross-country route over Knapsack Col. Start this route from the idyllic meadow above Lake 10740. Follow the creek that originates from the Stroud Glacier towards a large cleft in the cliffs on the south side of the valley, passing a small tarn, and enter the cleft (possibly difficult at high water).

Climb up large talus around and over the creek to reach the edge of the Stroud Glacier moraine, then hike past a milky glacial lake to the west edge of the moraine below Bow’s intimidating northern subpeaks, Sulphur and Brimstone. Continue westward, weaving through small cliff bands on narrow talus slopes below Bow’s precipitous north face. Aim for the obvious saddle between Brimstone and Bow, which is the only place where the Stroud Glacier cirque does not terminate in vertical cliffs. Climb snow (early season) or loose sand and dirty rock (late season) to reach the Brimstone-Bow col, then join Route 1 to reach the summit.

Bow Mountain Map

Bow Mountain Panorama

Bow Mountain Photos

Bow Mountain (13er, left) and Mount Arrowhead (high 12er, right) as seen with a telephoto lens from near Lester Pass (2016)

Northern telephoto view of Bow (right) and Arrowhead (left) as seen from the summit of Flagstone Peak (2019)

Sunrise on Bow Mountain’s precipitous north cirque, as seen from Woodrow Wilson (2020)

Approaching the Bow-American Legion-Henderson 13er peak group along the Highline Trail in snowy June conditions (2020)

Bow Mountain reflecting in Upper Jean Lake (2020)

Morning light on the southeast side of Bow (2020)

Arrowhead’s sharper profile blends into Bow Mountain in this view from American Legion Peak; the Stroud Glacier is on the right edge (2020)

Surprise 8 a.m. thunderstorm over the sweeping glacial buttresses of Bow and Arrowhead (2020)

As quickly as it arrived, the storm cleared out, and I headed for Bow’s standard southwest couloir route, out of view around the left buttress (2020)

Hiking up talus on Bow’s southern apron (2020)

Gentle snow slopes at the base of Bow Mountain (2020)

Starting up the southwest couloir (2020)

The route consists of a mix of snow and scree (2020)

Sky Pilot Peak and Mount Oeneis, both 12ers, are Bow’s western neighbors (2020)

Climbing the upper southwest couloir (2020)

Into the sun again at the couloir top-out (2020)

Scrambling up talus on the upper west face (2020)

Beautiful bluebird skies over Elbow Peak, a nearby 12er (2020)

Looking south towards the Island Lake region (2020)

View west from the top of Bow across the official headwaters cirque of the Green River (2020)

Telephoto view of the distant Green River Lakes (2020)

Starting back down the southwest couloir (2020)

Descending mellow snow slopes below the couloir (2020)

Already, the southwest couloir is hidden from view because it is so deeply inset in the face (2020)

Panorama of Bow Mountain and neighboring 13ers above Lake 10935 (2020)

Packing up camp above Upper Jean Lake (2020)

The now-familiar view of Bow Mountain from the Highline Trail near the Jean Lakes (2020)

Distant view of Bow and many other peaks from Photographer’s Point; I hiked out quickly and made it to 4th of July fireworks in Dubois later the same evening (2020)

Closeup of Bow Mountain at sunrise with the Tetons barely visible in the distance (2020)

Bow’s rugged north face and west ridge rises above the Peak Lake valley, with Peak Lake visible in the shadow on the right edge (2020)

Panorama of the Bow Mountain massif from the north (2020)

The Stroud Glacier on Bow’s north face is the official source of the Green River, the main tributary of the Colorado (2020)

Enjoying the view of Bow (right-most 13er) and countless other peaks from the top of Mount Whitecap (2020)

Bow Mountain, which I plan to climb later today, as seen from Split. I’m hoping to pioneer a new route up the right side of the sunlit cirque on Bow’s north face.

Overview of the upper Peak Lake Valley. I needed to cross the grassy meadow, find a way through the lower cliff band, then traverse right along the moraine.

This unranked spire is called Sulphur Peak. It’s very impressive from this side, but it’s connected to Bow via a high ridgeline to the south.

Glacial rock flour gives this small tarn its beautiful color.

One of the outlet streams from the Stroud Glacier flows through this steep cleft, providing reasonable passage through the cliffs to the moraine above.

From the edge of the moraine, I have my first closeup view of the route. I’m planning to meet the shadowed ridge at the saddle on the right.

Milky glacial water in the unnamed lake below the Stroud Glacier. I failed to collect drinking water from the clear streams down lower, so I reluctantly dipped a bottle from the lake.

My route ascends a mix of scree and polished slabs above the lake. It would be a snow climb earlier in the summer.

The lower section of the route ascends endless talus, aiming for subtle Bow-Brimstone col. Brimstone is the spire on the right, an unranked summit on the ridge between Bow and Sulphur.

Arrowhead, the second highest 12er in Wyoming, cuts a dramatic profile above the Stroud Glacier. The obvious sunlit peak is American Legion, with the West Twin and Warren visible on the left.

The upper section is a bit sketchy, with loose rock and slippery sand on top of steep rock slabs and hardpan gullies. It goes though, and before long I’m on the ridge.

After a short scrambling section above the col, I walk toward the high point along Bow’s broad summit plateau.

American Legion is less than a mile away from here, but a direct traverse would be impractical: the connecting ridge is one of the most jagged in the whole range. Instead, I’ll have to drop 2,000 ft. into the Jean Lakes valley, then re-ascend.

Looking north from Bow. I ascended from the lake far below. If you count carefully, a dozen 13ers are visible in this photo.

I descend the southwest couloir, the same route I used in 2020 (as a snow climb). It’s melted out now, and while most of it is easy hiking, these giant chockstones required some bouldering moves to get past.

From a false summit, I can see Bow Mountain to the west. The sun is below the horizon now, but the light will remain a little while longer.

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The Sunlit Summit

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Wyoming 13ers Guidebook