Henderson Peak

Elevation: 13,124 ft.

Prominence: 800 ft.

Isolation: 0.7 miles

Technical Difficulty: Class 4+

Henderson Peak Guidebook

Introduction

Henderson Peak is a rarely climbed, relatively low-elevation 13er in an area of high, famous summits. However, its sharp sweeping ridgelines and symmetrically steepening summit cone are worthy of another look. Most climbers will stick to the classic peaks on the other side of Titcomb, but if you find yourself returning to this area many times, an ascent of Henderson is a worthwhile intermediate step between the famous peaks and true obscurity.

Henderson Peak was named for Kenneth Henderson, an author of an early mountaineering handbook and a pioneer of Wind River climbing. He led the first ascent of this peak in 1936; a summit register was placed on the second ascent (in 1943) and records fewer than 50 ascents to date.

General Considerations

Like American Legion, Henderson’s standard route can be equally well approached from the Titcomb or Jean Lakes sides, though the approach from the Jean Lakes is both shorter and easier. The north ridge of Henderson Peak and the south ridge of American Legion Peak combine nicely for a fun day in the mountains.

Route 1: North Ridge – Class 4+

Climb easy scree above Lake 11665 or steeper talus and snow above Summer Ice Lake to reach Henderson’s north col from the west or east, respectively. The climb begins abruptly above the col with some class 4 steps below the crest of the ridge on the west side to gain a flatter section above.

The middle section of the climb consists of several steep steps broken up by flat sections and stacked ledges. The terrain is complicated enough that a step-by-step route description is useless, since each party will follow a slightly different path past each obstacle, but the route is never hard to find: just stay near the ridge crest and look for obvious west- or east-side bypasses when a gendarme blocks the way.

Much of the ridge looks ferocious from afar, but as you get closer, the inset ledges and jug-like holds reveal themselves. The final ascent to the summit looks very difficult even while climbing the lower part of the route, but upon closer inspection, the face is blocky, and the route can be kept class 4 with careful routefinding.

Route 2: Southeast Ridge – Class 5

Gained from the Titcomb side near the saddle with the Great Needle of the Titcomb Needles, this route involves lots of scrambling, a short but dramatic knife edge, and a few sections of steeper climbing.

Henderson Peak Map

Click title to show track

North Ridge Route
Southeast Ridge Route

Henderson Peak Panorama

Henderson Peak Photos

Henderson Peak is the sharp, symmetric peak on the left side of this photo, at the head of a row of smaller pinnacles on the western wall of Titcomb Basin called the Titcomb Needles (2016)

Henderson (right), American Legion (left), and the unranked 12er sometimes called Bondage (center, in front) as seen with a telephoto lens from somewhere on the Pole Creek Trail (2020)

Morning sun graces the classic north ridge of Henderson Peak, as seen from Mount Woodrow Wilson in June conditions (2020)

Close-up view of Henderson as seen from the Sphinx; the standard route ascends the ridge on the right (2020)

Looking up to Henderson (center) and the Great Needle (left) from Titcomb Basin (2020)

Nearing Fremont Crossing on the Highline Trail on my approach to the Jean Lakes region (2020)

Camping solo above Upper Jean Lake below Henderson’s western subpeak called Bondage (2020)

Hiking up gentle snow above Lake 11665 on my early morning approach (2020)

Starting the climb up Henderson’s north ridge from the saddle with American Legion (2020)

Looking back at the easy approach route from the Jean Lakes (2020)

The upper part of the north ridge looks daunting from afar (2020)

Scrambling steep rock near the crest of the ridge (2020)

Sometimes it is easier to follow ledge below the ridge on the west side (2020)

First signs of sunrise over the central Titcomb-Dinwoody region (2020)

Cool rock features make this route entertaining (2020)

The east side of the ridge still held a lot of snow in early July, but I could avoid it for the most part (2020)

Gathering storm clouds catch sunrise light over the Peak Lake area (2020)

Looking back down the north ridge of Henderson Peak just before sunrise (2020)

Sunrise over Mount Helen, Mount Warren, and several other classic Wyoming 13ers (2020)

The Henderson summit register was placed on the peak’s 2nd ascent in 1943; I was the 41st party to sign in (2020)

View of American Legion Peak (on the right) from on top of Henderson (2020)

View west from the summit; the unranked 12er Bondage is far below on the left (2020)

Looking down Henderson’s southeast ridge at Titcomb Basin (left side) and the sunlit Titcomb Needles (2020)

Henderson Peak’s sharp profile casts a dramatic shadow at sunrise (2020)

Shadow selfie on Henderson’s summit block (2020)

Reversing the ultra-picturesque north ridge with American Legion in the distance (2020)

The route already looks much more difficult from just a little bit farther away (2020)

Clean rock and steep terrain makes for fun scrambling (2020)

Descending a broken section of the ridge (2020)

Looking back at a particularly sharp section of the north ridge route (2020)

Considering the final descent back to the saddle (2020)

Profile view of most of the north ridge (2020)

American Legion Peak’s south slopes offer a superb view of the route I just climbed on Henderson (2020)

Henderson Peak in all its symmetric alpine glory (2020)

Looking up at the steep west face of Henderson (summit on left) from high in the Jean Lakes basin (2020)

The American Legion (left) and Henderson-Bondage (right) peak group above Lake 10935 (2020)

Henderson Peak’s sheer west face and graceful southeast (left) and north (right) ridges as seen from the much higher summit of Fremont Peak (2020)

Henderson is the first ranked peak on the long north-trending ridge that rises on the west side of Titcomb Basin (2020)

Parting view of the Bow/American Legion/Henderson group of 13ers above Miller Park, only a few miles from the Elkhart Park Trailhead (2020)

Henderson looms overhead as I cross a tiny pass to move into an adjoining valley. I plan to climb the ridge on the left skyline.

American Legion (left) and Henderson (right) above Lake 11,665. Both peaks can be combined neatly by climbing the ridges that start at their mutual col.

Swimming through the talus toward the Henderson-American Legion col.

This view from just below the col shows Henderson’s long north ridge stretching away to the summit. It’s longer and more complicated than I remembered.

Shadows lengthen over Summer Ice Lake, as seen from low on Henderson’s north ridge.

The north ridge of Henderson Peak is an endless 4th class scramble, which is great when you’re rested and enjoying it but a considerable annoyance when you just want it to be over.

Looking down the north ridge from about halfway up.

Almost to the top. I keep pushing back my summit time since the scrambling is slower than anticipated.

At last, I made it to the summit. The Titcomb Needles, a bunch of minor spires on the west side of Titcomb, are accentuated by the low-angle light.

The hard-earned summit block of Henderson Peak. American Legion is the shadowed peak on the right.

Back at the base of the ridge, a half hour before sunset, I grab some candy and begin my ascent of American Legion. I can see the sunset starting to light up Henderson, and I’m eager to get some photos from up higher.

Amazing sunsets are the reward for getting behind schedule in the alpine. Henderson was really starting to look gorgeous in the golden light as I made my way up American Legion.

Twilight brings softer colors to the dramatic landscape around Summer Ice Lake. Henderson is obvious on the right, Harrower is visible in the distant center, and the two high peaks on the left are Sacagawea and Fremont.

By now, I’m at or above Henderson’s summit elevation, but the peak doesn’t look any less impressive. I climbed the ridge separating shadow and light.

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The Sunlit Summit

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Wyoming 13ers Guidebook